An insight into the interdisciplinary collaboration with the University of Vienna. The article describes the development of a new material from fungi and the first design, the 'Mushroom Muse' corsage.
In the fashion industry, true innovation often means challenging existing boundaries. My collaboration with researchers at the University of Vienna is an inspiring example of how science and design can break new ground in material development. Working alongside scientists like Anne Zhao and Prof. Alexander Bismarck, I had the unique opportunity to explore a groundbreaking material derived from fungi and became the first designer to work with this innovative fabric. This interdisciplinary cooperation enables me to develop sustainable design solutions at the intersection of research and fashion.
Fungi are not only fascinating organisms but also possess remarkable properties that open new possibilities in material research. The material developed by Anne Zhao and Prof. Alexander Bismarck is based on the structure of fungal fruiting bodies and utilizes an innovative combination of chitin and β-glucan to create a flexible yet durable texture.
Through extensive experimentation with different sewing techniques, threads, and stitch lengths, I gained initial insights into how this material can be processed in fashion. The results show that traditional processing techniques are not always transferable and require a shift in handling. This process highlights how designers can actively contribute to the advancement of biomaterials by conducting hands-on testing and modifications.
A milestone of this collaboration is the Mushroom Muse dress, which blends classic elegance with innovative materials. The design draws on the aesthetic language of the 1980s and reinterprets it with sustainable materials. The silk used in this piece was dyed and partially cultivated with fungi, creating a unique surface texture.
The highlight of the outfit is a corset made from the special material developed by Zhao and Prof. Bismarck. The structure of the fungal material gives the corset a distinctive organic texture that sets it apart both visually and haptically from conventional fabrics. This design symbolizes the dialogue between traditional tailoring and modern material research.
This collaboration demonstrates that sustainable fashion is not just about conscious production but also about the courage to explore new materials and push boundaries. The fusion of design and science allows for the creation of fashion that is not only aesthetically appealing but also technologically pioneering. I look forward to continuing this journey and discovering what new possibilities will emerge.
Behind the vision
A heartfelt thank you to all the talented individuals who contributed their creativity, skills, and passion to bring this project to life – your dedication has been invaluable.
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