Fashion is more than fabric and cut – it is a language. One that tells stories without words, conveys emotions, and shapes identity. With my collection Mycelium Interwoven, I immerse myself in a network that surrounds and connects us: mycelium. It not only inspires the construction of the pieces but also their colors and materials – a homage to the subtle, hidden processes of nature.
Color Concept: Nature as a Palette
The color design of the collection is inspired by the diversity and development of natural tones – particularly from the world of mushrooms. The goal was to go beyond traditional earthy mushroom tones and develop a color palette that does not directly reference mushrooms as a source. Initially, the final color selection was uncertain, as experiments with mushroom-dyed fabrics were still in development. The resulting palette reflects both the unexplored areas and the fascination with fungi, as well as their protected and hidden world.
Dark tones symbolize the mysterious and mystical side of the fungal kingdom, while pastel shades emphasize the promising, exciting possibilities and the diversity of mushrooms. Bright green and red represent the open future and the yet undiscovered potential of the fungal realm.
- Ghost Fungus – a cool, misty gray that captures the mystical and enigmatic aura of bioluminescent fungi.
- Shiitake Shade – an elegant, subtle beige symbolizing the silent resilience and grounded growth of mushrooms.
- Gills Gleam – a soft silver-gray reflecting the fine, delicate gill structures of mushrooms.
- Spore Shadow – a deep gray representing the hidden, enigmatic depths of the forest and the mysterious energy of the fungal world.
- Midnight Morel – an intense, dark black embodying the resilience and adaptability of fungal mycelium.
- Forest Morel – a deep moss green, representing the relentless growth and regenerative power of mycelium in damp forest soils.
- Porcini Sand – a warm, sandy beige reminiscent of the dry, enduring texture of mushroom caps.
- Spore Cream – a soft off-white symbolizing the invisible yet essential power of mycelium as a life network.
- Oyster Blush – a muted pink inspired by the gentle, silky texture and delicate beauty of oyster mushrooms.
- Blushing Boletus – a warm, delicate pink symbolizing the organic transformation and natural elegance of mushrooms.
- Coral Luster – a deep, warm red capturing the luminous, unexpected color accents and dynamic evolution of the fungal world.
- Twilight Truffle – a dark, earthy brown emphasizing the deep connection of fungi with the soil and their essential role in the ecosystem.
Material Choice: A Fusion of Nature and Innovation
The material concept of this work has been significantly influenced by the successful realization and results of experiments, as well as the availability of specific materials. A balance is sought between the soft, silky texture of mycelium and the striking, robust appearance of mushrooms.
Silk represents the flowing, fragile quality that mycelium seeks to interpret. It contrasts with harder materials such as denim, which express the expressive, powerful nature and strength of mushrooms, the unexplored, and the solid. By combining these contrasts, the duality of the fungal world is emphasized: mycelium, which is soft and delicate like silk, and the fruiting body, which is more stable and rigid. These characteristics are represented by the material of Anne Zhao and Alexander Bismarck as well as the overgrown denim.
Silk: The Organic Counterpart
Silk has been deliberately chosen as a contrast material for this collection. It embodies the delicacy and elegance also found in the intricate structure of mycelium. In Mycelium Interwoven, silk is dyed with mushroom pigments – pigments which I previously collected and carefully harvested in the forest.
Denim: Fungi Meet Tradition
Denim is a key component of the collection – not only because of its durability but also because of its symbolic power. Like mycelium, denim weaves through fashion history, changing over time and bearing the marks of its wearer. In my collection, it is intentionally overgrown by mycelium to transform it into a new, organic aesthetic.
Fruiting Bodies: Innovative Leather from Fungi
A particularly visionary element of the collection is rooted in my collaboration with Prof. Alexander Bismarck and Anne Zhao from the University of Vienna. Together, they have pioneered research into a novel, leather-like material crafted from fungal fruiting bodies. Through our collaboration, they further developed and produced this material specifically for my collection. I was thrilled to be the first designer to experiment with and incorporate this pioneering material, embracing its unique qualities and exploring the transformative potential of fungi in sustainable luxury fashion.
At the heart of the material concept is the ambition to successfully scale the small-scale experiments to a larger production level. It is not just about exploring new materials but making them wearable – as a connection between nature and design.
A Living Materiality
Fashion is a fusion of form, material, and meaning. In Mycelium Interwoven, materials grow not only physically – they also evolve in significance. They show that fashion can be a living experiment.
Fungi remind us that change is the essence of life. This collection is an invitation to rethink fashion – not as a rigid product, but as something interwoven with us, our environment, and our imagination.
